This article ‘weaves’ – literally – a narrative to present Ghana first, then India, then Nigeria in what I dub the “GIN (Ghana, India, Nigeria) Therapy.”
Highlights
- Heritage Textiles in Ghana: Kente as a Model of Cultural and Economic Revival.
- The Swadeshi Campaign in India: Weaving Cultural Identity, Economic Growth, and Sustainability.
- Nigeria Aso-oke Remains Unprotected: Indigenous Textiles, Craft, and Cultural Identity.
Heritage Textiles in Ghana: Kente as a Model of Cultural and Economic Revival
Across Africa, traditional textiles serve as powerful tools of cultural diplomacy and economic transformation. Ghana’s Kente cloth, recently inscribed by UNESCO on the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, exemplifies this transformation. Kente functions as a means of communication and identity construction, reflecting the social histories of Ghanaian communities and operating both as a cultural archive and an economic commodity. It supports livelihoods through craftsmanship, entrepreneurship, and cultural exports. Designers like Aristide Loua of Kente Gentleman have modernized these traditions, merging local weaving with contemporary fashion sensibilities. UNESCO’s broader recognition of African cultural practices – from Ghana’s Kente to Botswana’s Wosana rainmaking ritual – highlights how heritage crafts, when properly supported, can drive economic resilience, tourism, and cultural continuity.
India: The Swadeshi Campaign and Revitalization of Textile Heritage
The Indian textile and clothing industry, valued at USD 179 billion in 2024, remains a cornerstone of the nation’s economy, expanding at an annual rate of over 7 percent. Household consumption accounts for 58 percent of the domestic market and is growing at 8.19 percent, while non-household consumption makes up 21 percent, with a 6.79 percent annual growth rate — as reported in the Times of India. With supportive policies and the newly introduced Swadeshi Campaign, the sector is projected to grow at a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 9–10 percent, potentially reaching USD 250 billion by 2030. Reforms in the Goods and Services Tax (GST) framework are expected to enhance consumption, bolstering both domestic and institutional markets. The Ministry of Textiles launched the Swadeshi Campaign, a national initiative spanning six to nine months, promoting domestic consumption of handloom, handicrafts, and indigenous textile products while repositioning Indian textiles as symbols of national pride and cultural continuity, especially among younger generations — according to the Times of India. The campaign’s goals include:
- Stimulating domestic demand for Indian-made textiles.
- Empowering weavers, artisans, and MSMEs within the textile ecosystem.
- Aligning with initiatives such as the Production Linked Incentive (PLI) Scheme for Textiles, PM MITRA Parks, and One District One Product (ODOP) (Times of India, 2025).
- Encouraging institutional procurement of Indian fabrics for uniforms, décor, and furnishings across ministries, PSUs, and educational institutions.
These efforts are supported by exhibitions, cultural festivals, and digital storytelling under the slogan:
“Swadeshi kapda desh ki shaan — yahi hai Bharat ki pehchaan.” (Swadeshi fabric is the pride of the nation — this is India’s identity.) (Times of India, 2025)
Cotton, central to India’s textile value chain, lags in productivity compared to global peers. The government’s Mission for Cotton Productivity, introduced in the FY26 Budget, promotes higher yields, sustainability, and extra-long staple cotton varieties. This aligns with India’s 5F vision – Farm to Fibre to Factory to Fashion to Foreign – connecting farmers, manufacturers, and exporters.
Nigeria Aso-oke Remains Unprotected: Indigenous Textiles and Cultural Identity Nigeria boasts a rich textile heritage, with fabrics such as Akwete, Ukara, Aso-Oke, and Adire representing centuries of artistry, symbolism, and community life. These textiles are continuously enriched through creativity and innovation, passed down via families, apprenticeships, and formal education. Learning also occurs at museums, exhibitions, festivals, and workshops. Both men and women participate actively — women typically weave and produce yarn, while men build looms and tools. Chief weavers oversee quality standards, mediate disputes, and establish trade networks. These textiles serve as vehicles of identity and social communication, conveying status, history, and belonging. This mirrors Ghana’s Kente, where craftsmanship embodies cultural, social, and communicative meaning.
Closing Thoughts
In this first part of my “GIN (Ghana, India, Nigeria) Therapy” Chronicles — textiles have been explored — showcasing opportunities and challenges — From Ghana’s Kente to India’s Swadeshi Campaign and Nigeria’s indigenous textiles, heritage fabrics operate as symbols of identity, innovation, and economic resilience. The revival of traditional textiles demonstrates a global trend — aligning cultural preservation with modern economic development. However, while Kente has now secured Geographical Indication (GI) status, neighbouring Nigeria still leaves its textiles (Aso-oke, Adire, Akwete etc.) unprotected and largely exposed. As for India, the Swadeshi Campaign offers a blueprint for inclusive, sustainable growth, while African textile heritage exemplifies how culture-driven industries can generate employment, entrepreneurship, and global influence. Together, these examples highlight the potential of heritage textiles to weave a future where culture, commerce, and sustainability coexist.
Ghana has officially obtained Geographical Indication (GI) status for Kente Cloth, securing its recognition and protection as an authentic Ghanaian heritage. This designation ensures that only Kente woven in Ghana can be labelled and sold as ‘Kente.’ In contrast, while Aso-oke – a handwoven textile deeply rooted in Yoruba culture – remains a symbol of artistry and tradition, it lacks formal protection under intellectual property (IP) laws such as copyright or patents. This absence of legal safeguarding has sparked growing concerns over cultural appropriation and commercial misuse of Aso-oke by foreign entities.
